September 30, 2023
This post is a couple weeks late, so please excuse the delay. So much to do and so little time to write about it!
To end my week off with a bang, I took a weekend trip to Venice with my friend Kylee! She’s currently working as an au pair in Italy until November. To be honest, I could write an entire book about everything I saw in Venice. I’ll do my best to summarize here, but it won’t be easy!
I can confidently say that two days is not enough time to visit Venice. However, we did a pretty good job making the most of every hour with Kylee’s thorough itinerary. The first thing we planned to see was Basilica di San Marco, or Saint Mark’s Basilica. We had heard about the notoriously long line, but nothing could have prepared me for the endless throng of tourists waiting outside. It would have taken several hours to even step foot in the Basilica. Instead, we opted to escape the crowds and explore the canals of the Castello neighborhood. But don’t worry, I hadn’t given up on the basilica just yet.
I can’t say I recommend visiting Venice on a weekend during peak tourist season. But if it’s your best option, it’s worth it. Compared to Piazza San Marco, Castello felt like a ghost town – and an oasis. It’s less of a tourist hub but still offers some incredible views and access to local businesses.
Next on the Agenda was Palazzo Ducale, or the Doge’s Palace. Shortly after we entered, I realized I knew next to nothing about the history of Venice. I wish I had researched a little before my trip, but the exhibit labels were pretty informative. The palace was built in 1340 for the Doge, or the supreme authority of the former Republic of Venice. Did anyone else know that Venice used to be its own sovereign state? Maybe I shouldn’t have dropped my high school European History class after all…
The Republic stood until French forces invaded in 1797 and Napoleon brought the Venetian Empire to its end. Today, the Doge’s Palace is an incredible museum to explore the different chambers where the Doge and governing councils used to meet. I can’t even begin to describe the intricate artwork and golden adornments in each chamber. I’ve never seen anything like it. No building in America can rival even a square foot of Venetian Gothic architecture. My mind was effectively blown. Doge’s Palace has been partially destroyed by at least three different fires between 1483 and 1577, so very few areas actually reflect the building’s original design. I’m beginning to think all historic European buildings are required to burn down at least once. Even still, the “new” interior is older than any building I had seen before moving to Europe.
You really have to see the palace for yourself to appreciate its historical magnificence, but I’ll do my best to showcase. I felt like I needed to see a chiropractor after craning my neck up at these ceilings. Feast your eyes on the Palazzo Ducale:
This is one of the few walls from the original palace that survived the fires. Like all things, this room falls victim to the passage of time. However, it’s not difficult to imagine this artwork in its former glory.
Next on the agenda was an elevator trip to the top of Saint Mark’s Campanile, the bell tower of the basilica. It took all of ten seconds to walk there from Doge’s Palace. If you’re looking for a full panoramic view of Venice, look no further. I could’ve stayed up here all day!
We were treated to some eardrum damage when the bells started chiming at the top of the hour. I thought it was awesome (perhaps an unpopular opinion amongst the covered ears and grumpy faces).
The tickets for the bell tower granted us free admission to Museo Correr. The museum occupies an impressive portion of St. Mark’s Square. It showcases the history of Venice from its origin to its union with Italy in the 1800s with a mélange of sculptures, paintings, and artifacts.
Maybe this is common knowledge, but I only ever pictured a “gondola” as the suspended lift used in mountain towns. I blame the Coloradan in me. Apparently, an actual gondola is the traditional Venetian row boat pictured here.
Aqua Alta is a not-so-hidden gem among the other tourist attractions in Venice. Had this bookstore not been packed with people, I could’ve browsed for hours. This whimsical shop keeps its collections safe from frequent flooding by storing books in bathtubs, basins, and a full-sized gondola. The “back door” is just a hole in the wall that opens right up to a canal. This store is quite literally stuffed with books in every crate, crack, and corner.
Even if you’re someone who “hates reading” or “hates all books” (I don’t believe you), this store has countless other amusing trinkets: magazines, posters, maps, journals, matchboxes, and postcards – both new and old. I can’t read Italian, but I loved sifting through bins of used postcards and finding the occasional letter in English or French. There’s inherent beauty in a thousand lost-and-found stories and intimate exchanges at your fingertips. And the best part? A community of stray cats that call this bookstore home.
Eating pasta beside a canal was the perfect conclusion to an unforgettable day. We were serenaded by singing gondoliers as they rowed past under the setting sun.
Unfortunately, we were too tired to enjoy the lively bar scene in our hostel, which included a DJ and strobe lights. However, I strongly recommend staying at Anda Venice Hostel for anyone looking meet fellow travelers.
We started our next day at the top of Ponte dell’Accademia, one of four bridges that cross the Grand Canal in Venice. I snapped a few pictures here while Kylee paid to use the nearby public restroom. Yes, paid. I’ve been warned about budgeting bathroom breaks in Italy, so I wasn’t too surprised. Thankfully, it’s free to pee in France.
My one essential bucket list item was riding a vaporetto through a canal. Was it packed with tourists? Yes. Was it peaceful whatsoever? No. But it was better than paying €80 for a private 40-minute gondola ride.
The center picture below features Ponte di Rialto, the oldest and most famous bridge in Venice (if you can’t tell from the perpetual crowd of people).
After our brief cruise through the Grand Canal, we found ourselves at the Teatro La Fenice. This opera house is a renowned historical landmark for Italian theater. We took a self-paced audio tour of the opera house and it was the perfect way to appreciate the building’s design while learning about its history. The theater was built in 1792 but has burned down twice since then (shocker). Only the original facade survived the fires in both 1836 and 1996.
While the interior design might not be as historical as the building itself, it’s warm lighting and inviting artwork are still beautiful. The opera house is aptly named: “fenice” translates to “phoenix” in English. Needless to say, the Teatro La Fenice is no stranger to rising from the ashes. I think maybe they should’ve named every European landmark “Fenice” and called it good.
For our last planned attraction, we finally made it back to Basilica di San Marco. The line wasn’t too long since we arrived early. For admission into the basilica, everyone is required to have their shoulders and knees covered, so we planned accordingly.
I immediately understood why St. Mark’s Basilica is Venice’s most popular attraction. I’ve never seen a basilica of these proportions. The interior is gigantic and every square inch of the ceiling is decorated in tiny golden tiles. The silence inside was both peaceful and intimidating. Only a heavenly power could make hundreds of chatty tourists shut up that fast.
I can’t find the words to describe this basilica, so I’ll just rely on these photos!
The last afternoon in Venice was spent leisurely strolling along the canals. We found cannolis and pizza, so if you’re more excited by food than history (no judgement here) you can check it out on my Chews Wisely page!
I think my favorite thing about Venice was all the different canals. From rowboats to old shutters to hanging laundry, each one has its own unique, picturesque character. To finish this post, please enjoy a small collection of my favorite Venetian canals. Ciao!
3 responses to “Canals and Cannolis”
Love the one of you walking through the streets. AMAZING pictures!!!
You are so cool
Simply amazing! I’m so glad to see that you are wasting no time and getting to explore so much in your time away. Love all the pictures and expect you to be my tour guide, when I make it there. Much love and miss you.