December 10, 2023 – Fall Break Pt. 1
For everyone who’s been asking, Kera is still Somewhere, alive and well. And the blogging shall not stop! I do, however, deeply apologize for the short hiatus. November was packed full with midterm exams, presentations, and the continuation of my European exploration. Let’s start at the beginning (or rather, the end of October).
Bonjour et bienvenue to the first installment of my fall break travel posts. Even though I was only in Spain for a weekend, I figure one post per country is sufficient. I decided to leave Friday night after class and take an overnight bus to Barcelona. I don’t know how many times I’ll be Europe, so here’s my simple equation: take advantage of your youth = maximize your time (and benefit your wallet). Sometimes that means taking a cheap BlaBlaCar bus that’s running an hour late without notifying its passengers. We were left wondering if the bus would come at all and calling the company service line. Alas, it came speeding into the bus station and we boarded for a rather restless night of feigned sleep. That would not be the last of my BlaBlaCar troubles for the weekend…
I was en route to spend the weekend with Jenna and Fran, a couple I know well from Colorado. To provide un peu de contexte, Jenna is the older sister of Nellie Danielson, one of my best friends. Having spent a lot of time at the Danielson house growing up, I’d like to give a shoutout to this extraordinary family. Nellie is the youngest of six, and I’ve received endless encouragement and advice about living abroad from her family – siblings and parents alike.
Nellie took a gap year after we graduated high school and traveled all over South America and Europe. I spent months trying to imagine a blog name as cool as Where the hell is Nell? – but to no avail. This series can be found on her sister Sophie’s website, Sophie Skips Town. Sophie’s travels and website largely inspired the blog that you’re reading now. If you have a few minutes to spare, I encourage you to check out Books Unbound, Sophie’s organization for refugee education materials.
I stepped off the bus in Barcelona under street lamps and starlight. I couldn’t see much on the walk to Jenna and Fran’s apartment, but as I passed by storefronts, I remarked just how little Spanish I retained from fourth grade. Jenna welcomed me at the door with their newest addition to the family, Leo. This puppy was as adorable as he was rambunctious. While he went on his morning walk, I took a much-needed power nap. Did I sleep for an hour? Five minutes? A million years? I’m still not sure, but that nap revived me.
After coffee, Jenna took me on a walking tour of the city. Their apartment can’t be more than 10 minutes from la Sagrada Família, so we started our day with Barcelona’s most famous attraction. Designed by Catalan architect Antoni Gaudí, the Sagrada Família is a notoriously unfinished basilica that’s been under construction since the project started in 1882. It’s currently the tallest unfinished church in the world, and will be the tallest church once it is completed (whenever that may be). Despite the impressively massive spires, Jenna told me that Gaudí wanted to keep the Sagrada Família shorter than Montjuïc, the tallest point of Barcelona’s skyline. Gaudí thought the “mountain [Montjuïc] represents nature, creation, the work of God, and out of respect for it, the highest lantern at the Temple [la Sagrada Família] had to be a bit lower“.
I felt pretty dense for not knowing who Gaudí was before visiting Barcelona. Traces of his brilliance can be found all throughout the city. In the past three months, I’ve seen my fair share of cathedrals and basilicas in Europe, but la Sagrada Família is by far the most unique, fascinating, and awe-inspiring of them all. Gaudí’s work plays a major role in Barcelona’s vibrant, one-of-a-kind atmosphere.
Next, we walked through the Arc de Triomf. This arc differs from Paris’s Arc de Triomphe in more than just color. Rather than a military memorial, the Arc de Triomf was built to welcome visitors at the 1888 Barcelona World Fair.
Strolling through Ciutadella Park, we eventually made our way to the Cascada Monumental. We were serenaded by a nearby saxophonist who reminded me of myself in the high school marching band (respectfully, not a compliment). This fountain was also built for the 1888 World Fair and, while not designed by Gaudí, he helped plan the water tank and hydraulics.
Perhaps the best thing about touring a city with a local is knowing where to find all the good public restrooms. But that wasn’t the only reason Jenna took me to the El Born Center for Culture and Memory. Today’s archeological museum was converted from a 19th century market hall. Jenna told me the historic remains were discovered during a period of reconstruction in the 1990s. The project was halted and replaced by an excavation of Barcelona’s old city in the 17th century. The houses were all but destroyed during the Spanish War of Succession in 1714.
While meandering through the streets of the La Ribera neighborhood, we passed a figurine shop with this peculiar fellow displayed out front. Jenna explained that El Caganer – quite literally “the pooper” – is a traditional Catalan character. He’s very popular among Southern Europeans and tourists alike. Out of fascination, I conducted some light research on the caganer and learned that he first appeared in Catalan nativity scenes sometime during the 17th or 18th century. The nativity scenes in Catalan countries usually include the entire city of Bethlehem, and the caganer is an essential character often hidden in the scene.
Soup du Jour: celui qui fait caca (el caganer, the one who poops)
Jenna introduced me to a few Barcelona specialties when we stopped for brunch at a café. Our coffee was paired with a cured ham sandwich, the highlight being the pa amb tomàquet (in Catalan), or pan con tomate (in Spanish). The “tomato bread” is basically just a tomato rubbed on bread, but it’s a simple gastronomic masterpiece.
I snapped a quick photo of the Santa Maria del Mar church and all its Catalan Gothic glory. This basilica was built during the 1300s and, like all European religious structures, it has not had an easy existence. The Santa Maria del Mar has survived damage from the 1428 Catalonia earthquake and the Spanish Civil War (when it was on fire for eleven days).
After migrating to the Gothic quarter, we found ourselves at Plaça Sant Jaume, or Saint James’s Square. Here, the City Hall (left)and the Palau de la Generalitat (right) stand opposite each other. The Palau de la Generalitat is the headquarters of the Catalonian Government.
Our morning walk was peaceful until we collided with the crowds in front of the Barcelona Cathedral. I wasn’t the only tourist enamored with the tiny intricacies that form this magnificent Gothic structure. I specifically remember seeing a creepy clown in the throng of people, which was disturbingly odd until we remembered that Halloween was on the horizon. Halloween feels like a natural compliment with all things Gothic, doesn’t it?
I wish I had a better photo to showcase the beautiful architecture of the Palau de la Música Catalana. Rainbow mosaics accent this concert hall inside and out. We peeked inside the foyer for only a few moments, but the auditorium looks like a work of angels (from what I’ve seen online). I’ve officially added “see an orchestra concert at the Palau de la Música Catalana” to my lifelong bucket-list. Barcelona might be the most lively, colorful city I’ve seen, and this palace is a representative masterpiece of Catalan modernism.
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Briefly, we traversed La Boqueria market. There were infinite edible offerings, but the meat stalls were most memorable.
That afternoon, we “went for vermouth” with Fran and his friends before they went to the Barcelona v. Madrid fútbol game. I learned that “going for vermouth” really just means going for drinks, but I didn’t pass up the opportunity to try vermouth for the first time. It was sweet, dark, and paired perfectly with the first ice cubes I’d received in months. I soaked up the sun and admired surrounding buildings, occasionally joining the conversation when it drifted back to English. I’m not sure if they were speaking Catalan or Spanish, or maybe a bit of both. After living in France, I have no problem being clueless during conversations.
Afterward, Jenna and I took Leo back to the apartment before going out for tapas (he needed a break from jumping on passing pedestrians). La Villa de Gracia was a charming neighborhood and the tapas were phenomenal. Jenna ordered everything, so I have her to thank for a 10/10 first-tapas experience.
To conclude an incredible day, Jenna and I took Leo on one last walk after sunset. We passed by the Recinte Modernista de Sant Pau, which used to be a hospital. Further on, I got to see la Sagrada Família at a more peaceful hour. It holds a different kind of beauty at night when the stained glass illuminates from inside. Barcelona was as alive as ever and glowing in the twilight.
The next morning, Jenna and Fran were leaving for their own vacation at the beach. However, they made sure to give me a thorough itinerary before we parted ways. I couldn’t have asked for better hosts to introduce me to Barcelona!
After ordering a quick coffee and sandwich (and feeling rather incompetent with my Spanish skills), I headed off to my first destination: Casa Milà. If you can’t already tell by its unconventional structure, this wavy wonder is another famous work of Gaudí. Casa Milà was the last private residence designed by Gaudí, and now it’s a popular visitor’s center. In another life, I think Casa Milà was the town hall of an underwater village (think Atlantis meets Whoville).
Nearby, I found myself at Casa Batlló, perhaps my favorite Gaudí building so far. In 1904, Gaudí was hired to redesign the existing house and transform it into the marvel we see today. Casa Batlló’s broken ceramic mosaics and stained glass are contained in a narrow space between two other buildings. Its skeletal structure has earned the nickname Casa dels ossos, or House of bones.
I’ve included a photo of Casa Amatller below (far right), the next-door neighbor of Casa Batlló. These two buildings are famous on the Illa de la Discòrdia (“Block of Discord”). The Illa de la Discòrdia is renowned for containing works from Barcelona’s four most prominent Catalan Modernism architects: Montaner, Gaudí, Cadafalch and Sagnier. The block showcases how each unique style clashes with the others.
My next stop was meant to be El Nacional, but it wasn’t open yet. To kill some time, I wandered to Plaça de Catalunya and became quickly entertained. Tourists outstretched their hands with food and became engulfed by flocks of pigeons. Repeating that now makes it sound kind of gross, but it was funny in the moment.
While it sparked my curiosity, I didn’t quite understand this sculpture in the plaza. I later learned that this is the Monument to Francesc Macià. Macià was a former president of the Generalitat of Catalonia and the statue represents the step-by-step construction of Catalonia’s future.
I still had an hour on my hands, so I walked back to la Sagrada Família, admired some more, ate a churro, and made it to El Nacional when it opened at noon. El Nacional is a “unique gastronomic multi-space”, but Jenna and Fran specifically instructed me to check out the bathroom. I admit, this must be the best public restroom in all of Barcelona. A+ ambiance in and out of the lavatory.
My next journey required a short trek on Gran Via avenue. I passed plenty of tapas bars and beautiful buildings like this one along the route. After a couple kilometers, I arrived at Las Arenas de Barcelona. Las Arenas used to be a bullfighting ring, but it hasn’t seen a bullfight since 1977. Now, it’s a shopping mall with a 360° walkway on the top level. I gladly skipped shopping for these views of Montjuïc (left) and Tibidabo in the distance (right).
If you’re a fan of Friends, this fun fact is for you: Remember the episode where Joey uses a fictitious story about backpacking through western Europe to seduce women? His tall tale is set “in the foothills of mont Tibidabo”, which I would have never remembered if Jenna hadn’t reminded me.
A quick focaccia for lunch fueled my walk to Parc de Montjuïc. I climbed up narrow roads through quiet neighborhoods with an incredible overlook of the city.
Montjuïc has quite a lot to offer. I spent my entire afternoon exploring this historical hill. Near the base, I soaked in the grandeur of the National Art Museum of Catalonia.
Further up the hill, I found the Estadi Olímpic Lluís Companys. This stadium was originally built in 1927 for the second World Fair, then later renovated for the 1992 Olympics in Barcelona.
I continued hiking into the Botanical Gardens. They were allegedly open, but the entrance turnstiles were all locked. I could see people in the garden, so I followed suit and hopped over the gate. This vast hillside greenery contains plant species from all around the world, such as this African spurge from Morocco (left). Maybe the garden really was closed, because I was trapped once I reached the top. Refusing to backtrack, I tossed my bag over the wooden fence and squeezed through to make my escape.
At long last, I made it to Montjuïc Castle on the top of the hill. This former military fortress has seen its fair share of conflict since construction in 1640. There’s nothing quite like seeing the Spanish coast for the first time from a castle that’s older than your country.
I finally checked all the big destinations off my list, leaving one thing left to do… I was beach-bound, baby! I tried not to rush too much because the descent was a gorgeous journey. If you look closely in the following photos, la Sagrada Família makes three guest appearances.
Along the bay, I stopped a few times to sift through old trinkets at a market and listen to live music.
It felt amazing to bury my feet in the sand after spending all day walking. The waves rolled in gently while I sipped on a Clara (thanks to Jenna for introducing me to the love child of beer and lemonade). I watched sailboats drift by as the sky gave way to pastel-colored clouds.
Things were going a little too perfectly, so I should’ve been suspicious. It wasn’t long before dark settled in and I made my way to the bus station. It was a pretty quick turnaround to another overnight BlaBlaCar bus, but not exactly as I planned. Long story short, I missed my bus back to Lyon (still trying to figure out if it was my fault or not). According to me, my bus never arrived at the station. But according to BlaBlaCar customer service, the bus left without me. The world may never know what really happened… Anyways, I was able to catch a later bus and somehow keep myself from having a full-blown panic attack (I think).
While I waited for the new bus, my French was put to the test. I sat beside a woman from Morocco who only spoke Spanish and French. No problem. Then a Malaysian woman arrived who’s only second language was English. No problem. But then the Moroccan woman starting asking some odd questions to the Malaysian woman that I didn’t really feel comfortable repeating, but felt obligated to translate. It was quite the odd interaction.
By the time the bus actually arrived, I was relieved to sit alone and have nowhere to go for the next 8 hours. All in all, my weekend in Barcelona was amazing, from start to (almost) finish. I was headed back to Lyon with more memories a few extra holes in my jeans – courtesy of Leo. I wouldn’t have it any other way.
Thank you for your patience and sticking with me! Coming soon: Fall Break Pt. 2, the British version!
2 responses to “Barcelona by Bus”
Great, thanks for providing a log of your journey. We are looking forward to your return in a few weeks to hear more about your adventures. Love you kid!
I can’t wait to see you soon! Love you Pa <3