September 19, 2023
My pre-semester course ended last week, so I had one week of freedom before the real stuff started. On Wednesday, my history class took an afternoon tour of the Croix-Rousse neighborhood. The majority of our time was spent at la Maison des Canuts. The Maison des Canuts is a museum about the history of silk production in Lyon and the Croix-Rousse. We got to see a real Jacquard loom and watch a demonstration of how silk is woven. At the end, my teacher bought us all silk cocoons for a souvenir!
Lyon has some pretty impressive street art and the Croix-Rousse is no exception. Here’s a sample of my favorite art from the neighborhood and its traboules.
Thursday we took our final exams. I haven’t gotten my final grades back, but French schools definitely grade harder than American universities. It might be time to accept some GPA changes… C’est la vie!
Some friends and I had a pool-side picnic on Friday to celebrate the end of classes. It was another lovely day in the heat of Lyon. That evening, I went to a contemporary dance performance with my host mom and host sister at the Opera House. It was… interesting. I don’t think I know what contemporary dance looks like. I was waiting for someone to bust a move the entire time (no moves were busted). The dance was still very artistic and impressive. At the end of the night, I was most entertained by how passionately my host sister Sanae disliked the performance.
After a short night of sleep, I was on a bus to Annecy for a day trip organized by my school. I sat next to my friend Emma and she taught me a few words in German! Besides the profanities, my favorite term was Zweibel-Look. Zweibel-Look is a fashion term that describes layering various pieces of clothing. It literally translates to “onion-look” in English. Get it?
We arrived in Annecy after a couple hours and Oh. My. Glob. Annecy is one of the most beautiful towns I’ve ever seen. It’s peacefully nestled at the base of the northern French Alps. We took a guided tour through Vieux Annecy and walked through picturesque streets, cathedrals, the medieval Chateau, and an old prison.
Besides the colorfully quaint architecture, my favorite attraction was the mountain view at Lake Annecy. Swimming here under the alps felt completely, blissfully unreal. It was almost an out-of-body experience, like I was a character in a movie. We also met a young woman named Romina who’s a teacher in Switzerland! She was on vacation by herself and she made for a great swimming buddy.
For everyone who told me to travel at every possible moment in Europe, you can rest easy. By Sunday morning, I was on a train to Nice for a short getaway in the south of France. A window seat has never felt more important as we glided past countless vineyards. The views were incredible for all five hours, but especially once we reached the coast.
Please enjoy this photo through the dirty train window! If you look closely, there’s a small reflection of the mountains on the other side of the tracks.
My friends and I wasted no time finding the nearest beach after we arrived. I never thought I’d get the chance to swim in the Mediterranean Sea and it felt like a dream. The water was bright blue and the perfect temperature for swimming, unlike the Pacific Ocean (apologies to the Oregon Coast). The Mediterranean is also the saltiest body of water I’ve ever encountered. I quickly learned to keep my eyes tightly shut underwater.
I discovered something else beneath the waves: I could hear a bunch of strange crackling noises in the water. It sounded like aquatic Pop-Rocks or a freshly poured bowl of Rice Krispies. After some research, I think snapping shrimp might be the culprits of this underwater chorus! There was a surprising amount of noise above the water, too. This beach was situated right next to the airport, so we watched dozens of planes fly in over the waves. We also unknowingly arrived in Nice during the men’s Ironman World Championship. Crossing the road was its own challenge amidst hundreds of sweat-drenched (slightly miserable-looking) athletes running in the street.
Speaking of Rice Krispies, I had a pretty killer view from my balcony at the Airbnb.
There’s a strong influence of Italian culture in Nice due to its proximity to Italy, so it was easiest to find pasta and gelato for dinner. No complaints there! Afterward, we briefly explored the streets of Vieux Nice and stumbled upon the church of Saint-Jacques-le-Majeur. It was both majestic and eerie in the absence of daylight.
Even though I turned down numerous suggestions to name my blog “Kera in the French Riviera” (sorry not sorry), I had to pay homage to the idea. The following day was designated for travel along the Cote d’Azur.
First, we took a bus to Villefranche-sur-Mer. The views were breathtaking and my photos will never do it justice. There’s an invisible magic in the air all along the Mediterranean. Everyone seems relaxed and unbothered, like they live in perpetual summer. I’m sure it’s different during other seasons, but summer in the French Riviera is perfect if you can tolerate the tourists.
We strolled along the streets, in and out of markets, cafés, and local shops. Eventually, we staked out a spot on the beach and cooled off in the sea. Villefranche had the clearest water I’ve ever seen. We almost decided to ditch our last destination to lounge around in Villefranche all day.
I accidentally led my friends on a mile-long “walk” up the steep, winding streets of Villefranche to get to our bus stop on time. They were not thrilled with my navigation skills and the term “hike of torture” was used once or twice. All I can say is we made it with two minutes to spare and the views were lovely.
Èze was our final destination for the day. As incredible as Villefranche was, I wish I had spent more time exploring Èze! The medieval village sits on a tall hill overlooking the Mediterranean. If you ever get the chance to visit, I highly suggest dedicating several hours to wander up the narrow streets.
We tried to find the hill’s highpoint for a panoramic view of the sea, but the countless pathways felt like a labyrinth. I learned later that you can only access the highpoint through the Jardin Exotique with paid admission. I’m not sure how I feel about gatekeeping the best views in town, but I suppose Èze has to take advantage of its tourism. If I ever get the chance to return, I’ll spend those 7 euros in a heartbeat. Here’s a small collage of some hidden gems in medieval Èze.
In French-fashion, we ate dinner very late that night once we got back to Nice. We opted to “cook” together in the Airbnb instead of dining at a restaurant. If you can’t tell, my friends and I are big fans of hors-d’œuvres.
Another day in Europe, another incredible cathedral. We found ourselves in Vieux Nice first thing in the morning for coffee and exploration. This is a photo of Cathédrale Sainte-Réparate de Nice. We perused in local shops before splitting off to see different things around the city.
I opted to ascend la Colline du Château, or Castle Hill, for the best view of Nice. As you can see, I was not disappointed. Castle Hill is named for the military citadel that stood from the 11th to 18th century until it was taken and destroyed by French troops under the command of Louis XIV. Today, there’s a park, cemetery, waterfall, and several restaurants along the various paths up the hill. A young man serenaded us with acoustic ballads at the top while we enjoyed the view.
Everyone reconvened for delicious afternoon crêpes before we made our way back to Lyon. Needless to say, I made the most of my time off – and that was only half of my week’s adventures!
On Thursday night, my program had a little soirée with all the students and their host families. I got to meet some of the French exchange students who studied in Oregon last year! I will admit to being a little tipsy after the charcuterie and bottomless wine.
After the event, Anissah and I met up with our friends from Australia and England at a bar on the Rhône river. Unfortunately, we all ordered the €5 margarita. I’ve decided to call this margarita the “Teenage Dream” because it was cheap and brimming with alcohol. To quote my Aussie friends, it tasted “like petrol”. On the bright side, these swans showed up to party with us!
I’m still catching my blog up to real time, so stay tuned for another post this week about my first trip outside of France! Until then, enjoy another sleepy French cat. Au revoir!
One response to “A good week, a Nice weekend”
Incredible pictures and adventures, I’m happy for you in these great experiences. Love you kid! Pa